Saturday, July 27, 2013

July Restaurant Scores for Nashville

This is not a reflection on anyone's taste, but how the city inspectors view Nashville restaurant kitchens' cleanliness. July 1-27 — and it looks like everyone was very well behaved.

Restaurant Scores from 7/1/2013 to 7/27/2013

High Scores:
Dominos Pizza
2004 Belcourt Avenue
Date Inspected: 7/16/2013
Score: 97
Five Guys Burgers
4017 Hillsboro Road
Date Inspected: 7/11/2013
Score: 100
Jersey Mikes
2184 Bandywood
Date Inspected: 7/16/2013
Score: 100
Kentucky Fried Chicken
4744 Lebanon Road
Date Inspected: 7/17/2013
Score: 98
Papa Johns
5814 Nolensville Road
Date Inspected: 7/3/2013
Score: 94
Pizza Hut
5028 Old Hickory Blvd.
Date Inspected: 7/19/2013
Score: 100
Popeyes
4023 Nolensville
Date Inspected: 7/5/2013
Score: 95
Sonic Drive-In
398 Harding Place
Date Inspected: 7/1/2013
Score: 97
Subway
1323 Bell Road
Date Inspected: 7/17/2013
Score: 100
Subway
2181 Nolensville Road
Date Inspected: 7/16/2013
Score: 98
Subway
2416 Lebanon Road
Date Inspected: 7/11/2013
Score: 96
Subway
4000 Granny White Pike
Date Inspected: 7/11/2013
Score: 100
Taqueria Elotes Nayarit
227 Largo Drive
Date Inspected: 7/1/2013
Score: 95
Which Wich
2002 Richard Jones Road
Date Inspected: 7/8/2013
Score: 97

Low Scores:
There are no low scores available for the date range you selected.

Thursday, July 25, 2013

Another Burger Odyssey Coda: Twin Kegs

Adverbs: Who needs 'em?
Although Burger Up still remains the crowned champ of Nashville burgers, as far as this blog is concerned,  I'm still finding plenty of good ones around town, especially since real burgers became trendy once again. And so, here's another one we stumbled onto — or into — better later than never: Twin Kegs.

Look, it's a dive. Not a faux dive, but a dive-dive. It has wobbly tables indoors, and cheap plastic tables with holes in the top, on the patio. It has a tabletop shuffleboard game! Some people are even afraid to go in, thanks to appearance + location (Thompson Lane, just west of Nolensville Road) — which works out just fine for the rest of us. Call it hipster rationale, but a place like this has got to have a good burger, right? 'cause it's not like the owners' investment money is going into restaurant design & marketing. So let's get on with it.

I'm going to start out by letting you know the one complaint I have about this burger: you can't get it medium rare. Probably can't. The first time I visited, someone up there took pity on me and it was made to order but on every visit since, the least they'd cook it for me was medium. Health department and all that. Therefore ...

Juiciness: 3 This is the one area the TK burger fails, for the above reason. I have had drier burgers — at someone's backyard barbeque.

Attractiveness: 7 This is a real working man's (and woman's) burger, and just a little on the homely side. The mix of white/yellow cheese is an original idea in Nashville; add-on points for that.

Cheeseburger, tots, and a Yazoo < $10
 It's hard to tell from the photos, but their "Bad Burger" contains a slice of crispy bacon buried under the cheese; it's not a very thick slice, and it's not a gourmet bacon from East Tennessee that needs identification on the menu, because the bacon isn't the star of the show.

Flavor: 9 This burger IS the star and it's a good'un. Hand-patted, and not over-worked. It doesn't have the texture of hamburger that was previously frozen, either. According to Twin Kegs menu, they do add some flavor enhancements, but from a taster's view, the enhancements (including the bacon) don't distract from a mediocre burger, they ...  enhance.


Atmosphere: 7 Told you already: it's a dive. If you look closely at the photo to the left, you can see a spot in the bar padding where the genuine naugahyde has a hole in it. But when you're paying $16 for two bacon cheeseburgers, a Coke & a Yazoo, is a trip back to 1982 really going to kill anyone?

Digestivity: 7 An hour later, I can still taste a little burger, but it's not unpleasant.


Overall: 6.5 but ... don't let that low number fool you. In spite of the kitchen's unwillingness to make a medium-rare burger, Twin Kegs is absolutely worth visiting, and coming back to.



Twin Kegs on Urbanspoon

Tuesday, July 23, 2013

This Post Has Nothing to Do With Nashville

 But it should be of interest to anyone in Nashville — and beyond — who eats. Word is traveling around the internets that someone(s) torched 6,500 GMO sugar beets in Jackson County Oregon, early in June of this year.
     The Oregonian broke the story on June 20th, with info that an agritech-friendly NGO has posted a $10,000 reward for info leading to arrests.
   As you might imagine, food activists are cheering on the matter, while noting the interesting lack of interest in the story from major media, other than a short AP article when the Oregonian broke it (and ain't it interesting to note the FBI was called in to investigate this local matter?) and a blip in the Spokesman Review. The other fun thing, in the few mainstream outlets that reported, is the reader comments. With that many people unashamedly cheering on arsonists ...


Wednesday, July 17, 2013

Look Who Got Instagram

Let the food porn commence!



   From Toyama, a new Japanese place at Nipper's Corner that's getting rave reviews on Yelp & Urban Spoon right now. Morning traffic guy Michael Higgins says it's his new favorite. This very attractive dish was his, actually, and I got a Fire-something roll. It was all quite yummy.




This is a spread I put together, courtesy of Whole Foods. Figs, roasted garlic, olives + tapenade, St. Agur & Buttermilk blues, Robusto cheese, a crusty loaf. The smoked wings aren't exactly in the Mediterranean diet, but they were divine, nonetheless.

Thursday, July 11, 2013

We Say It "Leh-zhure"

image
 Offerings at the Nashville Garden & Antique show, the tony annual fundraiser for Cheekwood.

     Some inhabitants of the town I call home are “Bless their heart”-ing Travel & Leisure magazine right now; Nashville was recently named on its list of America's Snobbiest Cities (we're number 13!).
  
   Hold your outrage for 10 seconds, and think about that, Nashville: a magazine named Travel & Leisure thinks our city is snobby.
 
    Now, I'll say it with you: what the fuck? Sans the f-bomb, that translates to: exactly what parameters are the magazine's editors using to make this determination?

In the annual America’s Favorite Cities survey, we asked readers to rank 35 major metropolitan areas for features such as trendy food trucks or good-looking locals. To determine which city has the biggest nose in the air, we factored in some traditional staples of snobbery: a reputation for aloof and smarty-pants residents, along with high-end shopping and highbrow cultural offerings like classical music and theater.
But we also considered 21st-century definitions of elitism: tech-savviness, artisanal coffeehouses, and a conspicuous eco-consciousness (say, the kind of city where you get a dirty look for throwing your coffee cup in the wrong bin).
     
         People have long been bemoaning the dumbing down of America. The Closing of the American Mind was written in 1987. You know things are going really downhill, though, when someone names Nashville “Snobbytown USA,” partly because people are standing in line at food trucks. Come check out Nolensville Road, y'all, we stand outside there, too.
     
        Good looking locals? Things must really have changed on Dickerson Pike since I last travelled that road.
       
        Aloof? Okay, I'll cop to that, but I spent the first 30 years of my life in NY and VT, and sometimes I still can't stop people from telling me more about their personal lives within 5 minutes of an introduction than they'll learn about me in 5 years.
       
        Metro's public schools critics would be delighted to have a talk about “smarty-pants” residents. Travel & Leisure is actually right about that; I can't count how many times I've overheard a conversation between a 5th grader, trying to show off what they learned in school that day, only to be silenced by being told, “well aren't you smart ...”
       
        Yes, we have a Le Creuset store, and now, a Nordstrom's. But most of my friends and I do our shopping at TJ Maxx & Goodwill. I do have one acquaintance who has more than one pair of Imogen + Willie jeans and he got them free, for modeling. Gee, maybe we do have good looking locals, after all.
       
          Classical music? Okay. We love our Schermerhorn and our Symphony, even if they are having some financial difficulty at the moment. When our city flooded, our Symphony moved its show outdoors and played for free. What did yours do, T & L?
        
          Yes, we have theatre. That's theatRE. Unless, dear Travel & Leisure magazine, property of American Express Publishing Corporation, you're that afraid of showing your Gold Card roots. I'd like to move on, so let's just say: “everything else is priceless,” and skip on to why Nashville, specifically wound up on list.
“Long before the Grand Ole Opry came to town, Nashville was known as the Athens of the South, with its well-heeled and distinctly un-hillbilly crowd. Today, the foodie culture sometimes attracts celebrities; at sushi bar Virago, in the Gulch, you might see famous residents like Nicole Kidman or Sheryl Crow. Nashville also extends the red carpet to compulsive email-checkers: it won the survey for its excellent wireless coverage.”
         Wow. Nashville has excellent wireless coverage. How terrible? And seriously, is it so awful for a city to be called “home” by successful artists? When did that become a bad thing? How many young people flee their hometowns because the best jobs going are behind a counter at Golden Corral?
        
         Either “snobby” doesn't mean what these editors think it means, or somehow, it lost its negative connotations. Aspiring to something better is never going to be a bad thing, as long as you've got supporters who want to go with you. It'd be a bit disturbing to think the editorial staff at a magazine called “Travel & Leisure” didn't want America's cities to have any kind of cultural enrichment opportunities for the average Joes & Joans wouldn't it? Especially since the hotel that keeps earning the top spot(s) on their annual “Best of” list goes for $2k a night and offers rustic experiences that leave people breathless:
“The leopard hunt was the highlight of this safari for us. Even though we came back a little late in the evening the excitement didn't stop there. The lions were coming through the camp so we had to scamper to our tents very quickly. Lots of hippos outside as well and the elephant in the backyard never even bothered with us.”
         Okay, so maybe it's true. With an editorial agenda like that, maybe having a world class Symphony, with its own performance hall and cushy seats, does leave blue blood splattered all over downtown Nashville.
        
         I take it all back. Pass the Dom Ruinart, someone. And if there is none, I'll take a Yazoo. The criteria didn't say anything about craft brew. 

Friday, June 14, 2013

How To Choose An Ear of Corn ... for reals

One day last summer, when I was in the supermarket shopping for corn and peeling back a few inches of husk on a few ears, a 30-something looking woman approached me and asked me what I look for when I buy.

I was a little dumbfounded; it's not something that was ever explained to me in words. I learned by watching my mom. Often she let me ride shotgun to the base of West Mountain, where a small farm stand opened every July-August. She'd grab an ear, peel back enough husk to view about 25% of the surface, and if she wanted that ear, she'd throw it in a paper bag.

By watching, and often by being given shucking duties (it was great fun and a privilege to be handed such an important task under age 10. Later on, not so much) I learned to recognize what she was looking for and what the final product would taste like when the crisp, bright, green outer leaves, the  softer, lighter inner husk and silk were done away with.  What came to the table was a super sweet and mildly savory cob with a light crunch and clean finish.
 
It seemed like such a natural thing, I thought everyone learned the way I did. So when that woman at Harris Teeter was in standing front of me waiting on a good answer, all I could think to say was something along the lines of, "well, it's hard to say, exactly ... I like small kernels." Which is true: I do look for ears with smaller kernels. The skin isn't as thick and maybe that gives it that tell-tale translucent look that the ear is ripe, and its sugar hasn't turned over to starch. If you take a good look at the above pic — from this afternoon's stop at a West Meade area farm stand — you can get an idea of what I mean.

I'm a honey & cream fan. If there's no mix, I'll go with yellow; I've been told that white corn, Silver Queen is what we have in the Nashville area, is sweeter but only in 1 out of 5 tries have I ever found it to be so. Cobs with super-bright, big yellow kernels are what my mom would have called "cow corn," destined to wind up in feed lots. My mom was far more discriminating about corn than cows are.

And so am I. Pass on that stuff.

Tuesday, May 7, 2013

A Locally-sourced, Grass-Fed Burger in Antioch? Yes, Antioch!

Michael Higgins photo
360 Burger, in their own way, are the true revolutionaries right now in the Nashville restaurants'  burger business. 12 South, East Nashville, Sylvan Park, all have restaurant and tavern owners who set up their shops in firmly foodie-educated, BoBo territory.  The scions of the Swett Family, David & Patrick, come from a family of restauranteurs with 60 + years of Southern cooking under their belts, in neighborhoods many don't like to step into until gentrification is already well underway. The Swetts have traversed from the North to the South side, and brought good burger along with them.

 I neglected to bring a camera; my burger buddy Michael Higgins may save the day, yet. Here's going for the score, in the meantime:

Juiciness - 6.  
Kind of on the low side, here. The burger was plenty moist, but not exactly juicy. On the plus side, you won't have to worry much about dribbling.

Flavor - 9. 
Wow, really big beefy flavor, with a little kick that makes me wonder if there isn't a tiny amount of additive, along the lines of an onion soup mix.

Attractiveness - 7. 
360 offers a near picture-perfect burger. I'm not a huge fan of pretzel-dough buns, though, and there was the issue of pre-shredded lettuce.

Atmosphere - 8. 
Nice looking tavern that gets plenty of light from the front window wall. Because this is Antioch, after all, I'm not removing any points for it being in a strip mall.

Digestivity - 10.
While we all love good burger taste, no one really wants to taste it for the rest of the day. I've been to 360 twice now, and the star attraction went down clean and stayed clean, each time.

Overall - 8.
Congratulations Antioch! If you wish to say now, that you have a burger joint for hipsters, you can. Other bonuses: Yazoo on tap, and great service, too.

Note on the sides: I've tried the fries, chili cheese fries ("what was I thinking?"), and one of Michael's onion rings and wasn't very impressed with any. OTOH, I went for the burger. 

360 Burger, Hickory Hollow Pkwy.

 360 Burger on Urbanspoon